The truth about anti-aging creams and serums
BY EMILY
REKSTIS
Anti-aging products make up a
huge part of the skincare market. From serums to cream, there are shelves full
of topical products making all sorts of claims to reverse or prevent signs of
aging. But do these really work? It's hard to believe something as simple as
smoothing on a cream can produce any major results. So we talked to three
dermatologists to get their take on anti-aging creams and serums and if they
actually work — and we have good news! All three unanimously agreed that yes,
anti-aging topical products do in fact work. However, there are a few things
you should know before purchasing to guarantee real, longer-term results.
Price
doesn't actually matter
Nervous about your budget?
Don't be! You may think the pricier the better when it comes to getting
results, but that isn't necessarily true. "There is this misconception
that more expensive products always work better," explains RealSelf's Dr. Joel
Schlessinger. "But in reality it all comes down to knowing what is good
and the science behind it." That means if a product has active ingredients
such as retinol or antioxidants, it doesn't matter whether it's from a
drugstore, a dermatologist, or a premier luxury line.
Retinol
can reverse signs of aging
The truth behind whether a
topical product works or not comes down to the ingredients it's packed with.
Retinol is a key ingredient when it comes to reversing the signs of aging.
"It's my No. 1 anti-wrinkle eraser," explains Aesthetic Dermatology
specialist Dr. Desmer Destang. Retinol is an active form of vitamin A. As we
age, our bodies lose vitamin A naturally, which is what helps create those
signs of aging such as wrinkles and a dull complexion. But retinol can reverse
this. "Retinol and especially retinoic acid work to increase cell
turnover, build collagen, improve discoloration, [and] treat wrinkles by
replenishing the body of vitamin A," explains board-certified and
nationally-acclaimed dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman. As Dr. Schlessinger
explains it, "retinol essentially teaches aging skin cells how to behave
like younger, healthier cells by encouraging them to turnover more
rapidly." So if a product contains retinol, you can expect to see
smoother, brighter, firmer skin.
Antioxidants
can also help prevent signs of aging
Another key ingredient in
anti-aging skincare: antioxidants, which do in fact promote repair and healing
when you have already mature skin. But their main anti-aging benefit is
prevention. Antioxidants help protect the skin from free radical damage and
environmental stressors such as UV damage or pollution. "They protect the
key supporting protein structures within the skin by decelerating their degradation,"
explains Dr. Destang. These antioxidants come in many forms, including vitamin
E and C, green tea extract, niacinamide, and resveratrol. Dr. Engelman further
explains, "Vitamin C pairs with free radical scavengers in search of a
missing electron, so it neutralizes the damage a free radical can do if it were
to pair instead with an electron from a skin protein." So if you're
someone who isn't quite seeing the signs of aging yet, but is nervous about the
future, look for products packed with any of these kinds of antioxidants.
These
active ingredients should come in high concentrations
As you turn over boxes to look
for active ingredients like retinol and antioxidants, you'll want to make sure
they come in a high enough concentration to actually work. Dr. Destang notes
that they should be at the top of the ingredient list. "An active ingredient
placed higher up on the list suggests higher concentrations within the
product," he explains. "You need to know whether the concentration be
strong enough to actually create a biological effect."
Moisturizing
components are beneficial but shouldn't be the main ingredient
Hydrated skin equals plump
skin. And plump skin equals younger-looking skin. But to get long-term
anti-aging benefits, you're going to need more than moisture. "Hyaluronic
acid will hydrate and plump the skin, but on the surface only," explains
Dr. Destang. However, you don't want to completely forgo these moisturizing
benefits. After all, surface benefits like plump, smooth lines don't suck. It
also helps provide a barrier to protect the skin. "Hyaluronic acid can hold
up to 1,000 times its weight in water, meaning it does wonders in hydrating the
skin," explains Dr. Engelman. "Skin loses water and moisture as we
age. This ingredient will help store hydration." Also, strong doses of
retinol can dry out skin. So while you're looking for products filled with
retinol and antioxidants, also keep an eye out for hyaluronic acid. It will
only help balance skin's moisture barrier and can deliver quick smoothing
results while you slowly gain long-term results.
It's
not going to happen overnight
It takes time and consistency
to see any sort of real results. While you may see superficial benefits thanks
to hyaluronic acid or caffeine, to actually reverse the signs of aging takes
time. All the dermatologists stressed that women should be wary of any
fast-acting claims a product makes. "Any claim that sounds too good to be
true likely is," says Dr. Engelman, "Even the best skin care products
take 4-8 weeks to really induce measureable skin changes." Dr. Destang
further explains that skin needs to go through a full cycle in order to produce
new skin cells. And it's with these new cells that you'll see real results. You
also need to keep up a consistent routine to gain products' full benefits. This
means serums and creams should be used every single day. "These active
products require daily use, as skin is being regenerated 24 hours a day,"
explains Dr. Destang. Dr. Engelman typically recommends clients use the product
in the morning and before bed.
Doctor
recommended products that have delivered results
"ROC Retinol and Replenix
products appear to be well-formulated retinol products with good encapsulated
delivery systems," says Dr. Destang. "This ensures product stability
and effectiveness."
Dr. Schlessinger also has a
retinol recommendation: NeoStrata Skin Active Retinol + NAG Complex. "It
helps minimize the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, large pores, dark spots,
and sagging skin with time-released retinol," he explains. "This
treatment also contains NeoGlucosamine to build collagen and improve the skin's
surrounding support matrix."
As for prevention, Dr.
Schlessinger recommends SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic. "It contains a potent
blend of vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid for long-lasting antioxidant
protection. In addition to antioxidant benefits, C E Ferulic also improves
signs of aging and photodamage while brightening the complexion."
SOURCE:
THELIST
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